Well another year has gone by in the life of the Zetec engined 2B
Never got round to fitting the injection last winter, and not being sure of the parentage of the ECU and throttle bodies, I sold them on again through ebay and brought a single plenum unit, which fits the standard Ford injectors and throttle body, along with a Microsquirt ECU (thanks www.trigger-wheels.com). Only failures I have had over the last year have been a breaking down ignition lead, which was a intermittent fault which took some finding, and also the failure of a cheapy in line fuse holder which was the power feed to the Megajolt - buy cheap, buy twice!
So plan this winter is to fit the injection along with the new brake system, along with possibly building a new scuttle unit, cutting the bonnet separate to the scuttle and hinging it at the front.
Saturday, 7 August 2010
Monday, 17 August 2009
Update August 2009
Is it really may since I last posted!!!
Quick update on how things have been going. Had a successful run to Le Mans in June. Ran all the way there and back without a hitch....apart from the engine bay getting a bit warm in the Le Mans traffic. Less than a week later went for a run to a local pub and broke down on the way home...it started popping and banging on one cylinder, then cleared itself and was OK. Played up occassionally over the next few drives and eventually discovered one of the HT leads was on its last legs so replaced the whole ignition system from coil pack onwards.
Minor issue with the alternator bracket - the weld on it broke causing the alternator to move at an angle and the belt popped off three of its five grooves. Welded it up a bit more securely second time!
Still have a problem with a petrol smell under hard acceleration. This is fuel stand off and I believe can be cured with trumpets/stacks on the carbs to increase the venturi effect. Have made up some simple ones (Coke cans!) to experiment. Seems to have improved it slightly but need to be longer to have a better effect. But with the latest purchase that should become a thing of the past.
I have now acquired a set of GSXR thottle bodies, ST170 inlet manifold and a megaquirt ECU. To compliment these I will need a swirl pot (to ensure constant fuel supply) and a high pressure pump. I will also need to install the Robin Hood pedal set to move the master cylinder out of the way.
Quick update on how things have been going. Had a successful run to Le Mans in June. Ran all the way there and back without a hitch....apart from the engine bay getting a bit warm in the Le Mans traffic. Less than a week later went for a run to a local pub and broke down on the way home...it started popping and banging on one cylinder, then cleared itself and was OK. Played up occassionally over the next few drives and eventually discovered one of the HT leads was on its last legs so replaced the whole ignition system from coil pack onwards.
Minor issue with the alternator bracket - the weld on it broke causing the alternator to move at an angle and the belt popped off three of its five grooves. Welded it up a bit more securely second time!
Still have a problem with a petrol smell under hard acceleration. This is fuel stand off and I believe can be cured with trumpets/stacks on the carbs to increase the venturi effect. Have made up some simple ones (Coke cans!) to experiment. Seems to have improved it slightly but need to be longer to have a better effect. But with the latest purchase that should become a thing of the past.
I have now acquired a set of GSXR thottle bodies, ST170 inlet manifold and a megaquirt ECU. To compliment these I will need a swirl pot (to ensure constant fuel supply) and a high pressure pump. I will also need to install the Robin Hood pedal set to move the master cylinder out of the way.
Wednesday, 13 May 2009
Fine tuning
Well since I have got back from Stoneleigh I have done a few jobs....after the frantic work the week before the show it was nice to have a rest.
The temp gauge has been sorted by fitting the 32mm adaptor from Rally Design. Only down point on this item was the fact there was no allowance for an earth, so I drilled a small hole and put a self tapper into it. Adaptor was fitted into the top hose with the Pinto temp sender. Run out the weekend showed the gauge sat nicely in the middle of its span.
Also dealt with the speedo. Drilled a 25mm hole just forward of the original one in the drivers side of the tunnel...once I had removed carpet, false floor, etc! I didn't build it to come apart..... Cable clipped back into gearbox and the speedo was working again. Just need to suss out the alternator light wiring to stop it being on all the time.
Next job is to refit the boot, tidy up the engine bay wiring and fit an expansion tank. Have also just received some 32mm silicone top hoses and a new windscreen washer bottle which will be fitted shortly.
The temp gauge has been sorted by fitting the 32mm adaptor from Rally Design. Only down point on this item was the fact there was no allowance for an earth, so I drilled a small hole and put a self tapper into it. Adaptor was fitted into the top hose with the Pinto temp sender. Run out the weekend showed the gauge sat nicely in the middle of its span.
Also dealt with the speedo. Drilled a 25mm hole just forward of the original one in the drivers side of the tunnel...once I had removed carpet, false floor, etc! I didn't build it to come apart..... Cable clipped back into gearbox and the speedo was working again. Just need to suss out the alternator light wiring to stop it being on all the time.
Next job is to refit the boot, tidy up the engine bay wiring and fit an expansion tank. Have also just received some 32mm silicone top hoses and a new windscreen washer bottle which will be fitted shortly.
Monday, 4 May 2009
Stoneleigh here I come.....
Saturday was a frantic days work to correct/finish all the interim jobs.
First off was the carbs. Now the TPS was wired correctly I centered my attentions on drilling out the jets to help the running. I went for 150 size (1.5mm) - standard is 95. Web research suggested most run at around 160 - 170 main jets, so I thought starting at 150 would give some leaway. (I subsequently learnt from Chris at Trigger Wheels if you over drill the jets you can fill them with solder and have another go!)
While I had them off I examined the de-icing system on the base of the carbs and realised it ws letting air into the carbs, so I blanked these off. I also connected the pipes which appeared to be for carb balancing (two carbs already joined, one blanked off, and one open) to seal off any other leaks.
Popping them back on the car an a quick test and it ran as sweet as a nut - pulled apart the balacing pipes and it chuffed air like a steam train!
Next job was connecting the engine sensors. First up was tacho. Straight into the back of the megajolt and straight away had a rev counter! The oil pressure switch was again straight forward (sensor under the carbs) as is just a single switch. The water temperature sensor is i the thermostat housing and has two wires. Looking at the wiring diagram it looked like one was earth and one sent the signal. I hooked this up and the temp guage started to move.
Next up was sorting the bonnet. I made a card template of the slot I was going to have to cut for the exhaust, then drew this onto masking tape on the side of the bonnet. I cut away about 80% of the template line to allow for final jiggling.
I then set the catch down to its original position, and with a couple of hours jiggling I had the bonnet shutting. I extended the exhaust clamp which clips into the bonnet catch, spaced out the bonnet strengther, and trimmed away a small amount of the central flange to clear the cam belt cover. Then bonnet sits about the same at the edges, but slightly higher in the middle than with the Pinto engine.
I then finished off a few odd jobs - torqued up the propshaft bolts, tidied up the gearbox mount, put the alternator belt back on properly - it had moved across the grooves on the idler pulley.
Whizzed out for a quick test run with no faults showing up, except the temp guage didn't move all the way up - not even reaching cold, so I chucked a bucket of water over it. Matt then turned up and we had a look at the temp guage problem. Came to light these later Zetec's had one sensor which talked to the ECU, then that spoke to the guage - therefore it was sending the wrong signal for the guage to work.
So the next day (Sunday) I was up early for our run to Stoneleigh. Key in the ignition...nothing. ARRRGHHHHH!!!!! Could not believe it. Battery must be flat. Whipped bonnet up, then decided to check battery voltage - 12.5v. Must be something else. Looked into the engine bay and noticed the lead had come off the battery. Whipped a nut off another starter, bingo.... Off we went.
Run to Stoneleigh was uneventful - i.e. no breakdowns - but had a whiff of oil mist in the cockpit. Re-routed the vent pipes for the way home (must fit a proper breather tank) and all was fine. Ordered a 32mm diameter temp guage unit which goes in the top hose and should accept the sender from the Pinto, so the guage should read fine.
Just all those little finishing jobs to do now!
First off was the carbs. Now the TPS was wired correctly I centered my attentions on drilling out the jets to help the running. I went for 150 size (1.5mm) - standard is 95. Web research suggested most run at around 160 - 170 main jets, so I thought starting at 150 would give some leaway. (I subsequently learnt from Chris at Trigger Wheels if you over drill the jets you can fill them with solder and have another go!)
While I had them off I examined the de-icing system on the base of the carbs and realised it ws letting air into the carbs, so I blanked these off. I also connected the pipes which appeared to be for carb balancing (two carbs already joined, one blanked off, and one open) to seal off any other leaks.
Popping them back on the car an a quick test and it ran as sweet as a nut - pulled apart the balacing pipes and it chuffed air like a steam train!
Next job was connecting the engine sensors. First up was tacho. Straight into the back of the megajolt and straight away had a rev counter! The oil pressure switch was again straight forward (sensor under the carbs) as is just a single switch. The water temperature sensor is i the thermostat housing and has two wires. Looking at the wiring diagram it looked like one was earth and one sent the signal. I hooked this up and the temp guage started to move.
Next up was sorting the bonnet. I made a card template of the slot I was going to have to cut for the exhaust, then drew this onto masking tape on the side of the bonnet. I cut away about 80% of the template line to allow for final jiggling.
I then set the catch down to its original position, and with a couple of hours jiggling I had the bonnet shutting. I extended the exhaust clamp which clips into the bonnet catch, spaced out the bonnet strengther, and trimmed away a small amount of the central flange to clear the cam belt cover. Then bonnet sits about the same at the edges, but slightly higher in the middle than with the Pinto engine.
I then finished off a few odd jobs - torqued up the propshaft bolts, tidied up the gearbox mount, put the alternator belt back on properly - it had moved across the grooves on the idler pulley.
Whizzed out for a quick test run with no faults showing up, except the temp guage didn't move all the way up - not even reaching cold, so I chucked a bucket of water over it. Matt then turned up and we had a look at the temp guage problem. Came to light these later Zetec's had one sensor which talked to the ECU, then that spoke to the guage - therefore it was sending the wrong signal for the guage to work.
So the next day (Sunday) I was up early for our run to Stoneleigh. Key in the ignition...nothing. ARRRGHHHHH!!!!! Could not believe it. Battery must be flat. Whipped bonnet up, then decided to check battery voltage - 12.5v. Must be something else. Looked into the engine bay and noticed the lead had come off the battery. Whipped a nut off another starter, bingo.... Off we went.
Run to Stoneleigh was uneventful - i.e. no breakdowns - but had a whiff of oil mist in the cockpit. Re-routed the vent pipes for the way home (must fit a proper breather tank) and all was fine. Ordered a 32mm diameter temp guage unit which goes in the top hose and should accept the sender from the Pinto, so the guage should read fine.
Just all those little finishing jobs to do now!
Friday, 1 May 2009
It's alive...
Well had a big push this week and the zetec heart is alive!
Last night was a wiring frenzy, when a neighbour came round and hooked up the fuel pump and edis ignition unit. Amazingly the car fired straight away - a shock all round. We went on to do the Megajolt and that seemed to improve the running.
Some frantic activity bleeding the brakes, bolting up the exhaust, making a throttle cable, filling with coolant, finding leaks, refilling with coolant, cutting and fitting the bonnet and I went off to get it MOT'd. Problem was the tickover had gradually increased, and by the time I arrived at the MOT station it was ticking over at around 3 - 4000 rpm. There was no way I could get it through like that, so the MOT was rearranged for later in the day.
A quick investigation brought to light that the jubilee clip holding one of the carbs on was resting against the throttle linkage. This was quickly rectified and I returned later for the MOT. The CO reading was quite low as I have not drilled out the main jets yet, but at least it was a past.
Much above tickover the car was not running well. With the assistance of Matt from Apple County kits and a borrowed laptop we discovered the TPS had been wired back to front - the Megajolt thought it was at full throttle when closed, and was retarding the ignition accordingly! Doh. A quick swap round made it run better, but think it needs the jets drilling out for full effect.
Last night was a wiring frenzy, when a neighbour came round and hooked up the fuel pump and edis ignition unit. Amazingly the car fired straight away - a shock all round. We went on to do the Megajolt and that seemed to improve the running.
Some frantic activity bleeding the brakes, bolting up the exhaust, making a throttle cable, filling with coolant, finding leaks, refilling with coolant, cutting and fitting the bonnet and I went off to get it MOT'd. Problem was the tickover had gradually increased, and by the time I arrived at the MOT station it was ticking over at around 3 - 4000 rpm. There was no way I could get it through like that, so the MOT was rearranged for later in the day.
A quick investigation brought to light that the jubilee clip holding one of the carbs on was resting against the throttle linkage. This was quickly rectified and I returned later for the MOT. The CO reading was quite low as I have not drilled out the main jets yet, but at least it was a past.
Much above tickover the car was not running well. With the assistance of Matt from Apple County kits and a borrowed laptop we discovered the TPS had been wired back to front - the Megajolt thought it was at full throttle when closed, and was retarding the ignition accordingly! Doh. A quick swap round made it run better, but think it needs the jets drilling out for full effect.
Monday, 27 April 2009
The end is nigh
Again I apoloogise for the lack of posts....I did go away on holiday for a week!
Well I have good progress to report.
Engine is back in on fully welded mounts - made from 6mm steel. I orginally used tube to connect the engine plate to the base plate, but this caused problems with getting the nut onto the mount. I got a local fabrication company to weld these up for me.
The coolant pipes are now complete. I used the swaged ends off a spare metal pipe from the Mondeo to make a blank for the heater pipe and the spur which goes into the water pump pipe and acts as a bypass for before the thermostat opens.
The GBS manifold had to be modified on the final bend as it did not exit at the correct angle to allow the silencer to fit. It is all now fitted with the silencer mounted on a modified Pinto exhaust bracket (call it recycling!)
Whilst on holiday I purchased another set of carbs - this time from a Kwaka ZRX1100. These sit more vertical than the ZX6 carbs and I have made a manifold to fit - the second version infact as the first was slightly too long and the carbs touched the brake master cylinder.
I removed all the rear panels and I have made a bracket to mount the fuel pump under the boot floor. Just needs wiring up.
Once I got all the main bits back in tonight I decided just to see if the engine would at least turnover - and it did! All I need now is an ignition system!
Well I have good progress to report.
Engine is back in on fully welded mounts - made from 6mm steel. I orginally used tube to connect the engine plate to the base plate, but this caused problems with getting the nut onto the mount. I got a local fabrication company to weld these up for me.
The coolant pipes are now complete. I used the swaged ends off a spare metal pipe from the Mondeo to make a blank for the heater pipe and the spur which goes into the water pump pipe and acts as a bypass for before the thermostat opens.
The GBS manifold had to be modified on the final bend as it did not exit at the correct angle to allow the silencer to fit. It is all now fitted with the silencer mounted on a modified Pinto exhaust bracket (call it recycling!)
Whilst on holiday I purchased another set of carbs - this time from a Kwaka ZRX1100. These sit more vertical than the ZX6 carbs and I have made a manifold to fit - the second version infact as the first was slightly too long and the carbs touched the brake master cylinder.
I removed all the rear panels and I have made a bracket to mount the fuel pump under the boot floor. Just needs wiring up.
Once I got all the main bits back in tonight I decided just to see if the engine would at least turnover - and it did! All I need now is an ignition system!
Tuesday, 14 April 2009
Getting there
I know there has been a lack of posts recently, but I am at last getting somewhere.
I had the propshaft extended by propshaft services in Bradford. Highly recommended. www.propshaft.co.uk
Trimmed and neatened up the rear of the floor before putting the propshaft back in. Would not quite go through the hole I had created, so had to lower the front of the gearbox, thus raising the back, to enable it to go in.
To make new engine mounts I fabricated a jig using some chipboard. I bolted in the existing Sierra mount with the adaptor plates, then measured out to move the engine forward 62mm, and also to relocate the mounting hole to the original one in the chassis. I used 6mm plate to make a base plate, and some 42mm, 3mm wall tubing to connect it to the original adaptor plates to the base plates. I also raised the engine on the mounts to try and solve the clashing exhaust/side rail issue.
I bolted up the original thermostat housing to the engine, casting aside the DIY water rail I had spent so much time on..... Dropping the engine back in the new mounts were spot on, with a few mm's clearance for the thermstat housing. The engine now looks rather high at the front....a quick bit of measuring shows the flange in the centre of the bonnet will need trimming, and the bonnet stay system I have will need to be removed.
Worked my way round the ancilleries. The CVH Sierra starter motor has arrived and fits the hole/trimmed sump nicely, and as an added advantage the wiring connections are the same as the Pinto. The coil pack bolted to a modified original bracket at the back of the engine.
The new engine position also means the original oil filter will not fit, as it would clash with the sterring column. A quick bit of internet searching found the Unipart GFE210 filter is the one to go for.... (Alternatives are Crossland 659 or Fram PH 2874). Picked one up today and it is the size of a tine of tuna, rather than the Red Bull can sixe item that was there before. The new one is just 65mm deep.
Wiring wise I have been stripping out the connecters from the Mondeo loom for the various sensors, and the Edis4 unit is now mounted on the bulkhead, so next step is to wire up the various sensors to it. I have also sorted the majority of the coolant hoses. I used the original flexi hose at the top of the pinto engine to connect the water pump to the original radiator bottom hose with a short length of 32mm steel tube (will replace with alloy). The original top hose from the Mondeo thermostat has been cut and shut to get the outlet of it to aim fowards. Just need a 32mm 90 degree bend to put on the radiator top connection, and a length of 32mm steel tube will connect the tube.
That ends the good progress.....
The induction side is still a headache. The ZX6 carbs are downdraft type. This means fo rhte floats, etc to work correctly they need to be at around a 45 degree angle. The next issue is they are not as widely spaced as the Mondeo inlet ports. And finally the brake master cylinder is still in the way of them being too far away from the engine. In summary, they won't fit with the brakes where they are now. The angle they have to be at along with stetching the spacing from carb to engine makes the flow want to go thru a 90 degree angle, which is not good.
I had looked at a floor mounted brake pedal kit from OBP. This would be two master cylinders, with brake bias adjustment, etc. But by the time I had purchased reserviors, etc the total cost was going to be the thick end of £200.
Today I speaking to Richard at Robin Hood. He was very helpful, and have come to a resolution on the exhaust pipe. We went on to discuss the general engine swap over issues, and when talking about the brakes he said they had developed a clutch/brake pedal kit which turned the master cylinder round to face the other way, therefore getting it out of the way of the induction side of the engine. I am waiting for him to email me a price but this may well be the solution to some of my problems.
I had the propshaft extended by propshaft services in Bradford. Highly recommended. www.propshaft.co.uk
Trimmed and neatened up the rear of the floor before putting the propshaft back in. Would not quite go through the hole I had created, so had to lower the front of the gearbox, thus raising the back, to enable it to go in.
To make new engine mounts I fabricated a jig using some chipboard. I bolted in the existing Sierra mount with the adaptor plates, then measured out to move the engine forward 62mm, and also to relocate the mounting hole to the original one in the chassis. I used 6mm plate to make a base plate, and some 42mm, 3mm wall tubing to connect it to the original adaptor plates to the base plates. I also raised the engine on the mounts to try and solve the clashing exhaust/side rail issue.
I bolted up the original thermostat housing to the engine, casting aside the DIY water rail I had spent so much time on..... Dropping the engine back in the new mounts were spot on, with a few mm's clearance for the thermstat housing. The engine now looks rather high at the front....a quick bit of measuring shows the flange in the centre of the bonnet will need trimming, and the bonnet stay system I have will need to be removed.
Worked my way round the ancilleries. The CVH Sierra starter motor has arrived and fits the hole/trimmed sump nicely, and as an added advantage the wiring connections are the same as the Pinto. The coil pack bolted to a modified original bracket at the back of the engine.
The new engine position also means the original oil filter will not fit, as it would clash with the sterring column. A quick bit of internet searching found the Unipart GFE210 filter is the one to go for.... (Alternatives are Crossland 659 or Fram PH 2874). Picked one up today and it is the size of a tine of tuna, rather than the Red Bull can sixe item that was there before. The new one is just 65mm deep.
Wiring wise I have been stripping out the connecters from the Mondeo loom for the various sensors, and the Edis4 unit is now mounted on the bulkhead, so next step is to wire up the various sensors to it. I have also sorted the majority of the coolant hoses. I used the original flexi hose at the top of the pinto engine to connect the water pump to the original radiator bottom hose with a short length of 32mm steel tube (will replace with alloy). The original top hose from the Mondeo thermostat has been cut and shut to get the outlet of it to aim fowards. Just need a 32mm 90 degree bend to put on the radiator top connection, and a length of 32mm steel tube will connect the tube.
That ends the good progress.....
The induction side is still a headache. The ZX6 carbs are downdraft type. This means fo rhte floats, etc to work correctly they need to be at around a 45 degree angle. The next issue is they are not as widely spaced as the Mondeo inlet ports. And finally the brake master cylinder is still in the way of them being too far away from the engine. In summary, they won't fit with the brakes where they are now. The angle they have to be at along with stetching the spacing from carb to engine makes the flow want to go thru a 90 degree angle, which is not good.
I had looked at a floor mounted brake pedal kit from OBP. This would be two master cylinders, with brake bias adjustment, etc. But by the time I had purchased reserviors, etc the total cost was going to be the thick end of £200.
Today I speaking to Richard at Robin Hood. He was very helpful, and have come to a resolution on the exhaust pipe. We went on to discuss the general engine swap over issues, and when talking about the brakes he said they had developed a clutch/brake pedal kit which turned the master cylinder round to face the other way, therefore getting it out of the way of the induction side of the engine. I am waiting for him to email me a price but this may well be the solution to some of my problems.
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